Travel Talk: Sevilla, Spain

The largest city in southern Spain, Sevilla holds a special place in my heart: it's the city where I spent 4 months taking the last two classes I needed for my Romance Language major and was my gateway to Europe. Size-wise, it can't compare to the larger and more popular cities of Barcelona and Madrid, but Sevilla nevertheless has its own charm and even a bit of a small-city feel. While I could write an outrageously extensive list of what to do, see, and eat in Sevilla, this post will cover the highlights:

Sights & Attractions

Cathedral and La Giralda

La Giralda

• The largest Gothic cathedral in the world and the resting place of Christopher Columbus, the Catedral de Sevilla is a must-see. Admission is 8€, but if you're a student under 25 it's a mere 3€, a bargain considering the sheer size of the place. The architecture is absolutely stunning and it's incredible to see the amount of detail that went into the construction of the church. You can also walk to the top of the Giralda, which is the tallest tower of the cathedral and in all of Sevilla. From the top, you will have a complete view of the entire city of Sevilla and the surrounding areas. It can be exhausting to walk up there (especially in the heat) but it's worth the views.

Reales Alcázares

My roommate and I in el Patio de las Doncellas

• Originally a Moorish fort, los Reales Alcázares is now a royal palace in the heart of Sevilla.The Moorish architecture is immediately evident in all the arches and detailed walls, especially in el Patio de las Doncellas. The gardens are also breathtaking and there's all sorts of flowers and fountains. Admission is free for all residents of Sevilla, 2€ for students 17-25, and 8,75€ for everyone else. If you're a resident, I highly recommend this place for an afternoon read...but not when it's hot out.

Plaza de España

Plaza on my way to uni classes

• Possibly my favorite place in all of Sevilla, la Plaza de España is a large plaze quite unlike any I've seen before. The fountain is enormous and its mist offers a bit of relief from the summer heat, but my personal favorite part is the details along the walls that depict many cities across Spain. All of the architecture is intricately detailed and painted. If you're looking for a spot for relaxing, el Parque de María Luisa is immediately adjacent to the plaza, and there's plenty of grassy areas and beautiful scenery for all!

Metropol Parasol

It's like a giant mushroom...

• If you're trying to get the sky-high views of Sevilla without the exertion that comes from walking to the top of La Giralda, I recommend el Metropol instead. Located in Plaza de la Encarnación, this mushroom-shaped wooden building known as Las Setas offers views of the city that do include the cathedral. You can walk all along the top of the building, and there's even a bar up there with drinks and tapas (warning: it is a bit pricy).

This was one of the main roads!

Itálica

• Although this really isn't located in the city but rather in the surrounding areas, if you have the time to take a day trip to Itálica, go. These are the ruins of an old Roman city and it's incredible how intact many things are. The most impressive sight is the Roman amphitheater (there's even lion scratch marks on some walls if you look closely!), but there are also some mosaics that are still mostly in great shape.

Food & Drink

Eslava

• One of our study abroad professors was kind enough to send us a list of some of the best places for tapas in Sevilla at the beginning of the semester. Eslava was one of the locations on there. While there is also a restaurant, I've never been to the restaurant, just to the tapas bar. They have many local specialties and, as such, is a favorite among locals as well. It's fairly busy, and if you're going on the weekend, I would recommend getting there before 8:30 or 9pm. The best part are the homemade desserts, but in all honesty, I never had a bad tapa here so you're probably safe with anything!

Casablanca

• While studying abroad, we first came upon this bar on the recommendation of a friend's host family. Color me impressed. While I found the tapas to be a bit pricier than in other places I went to over the course of term, the food was absolutely delicious! I still have dreams about the bacalao I had here, so if you're a seafood fan, I definitely recommend it!

100 Montaditos

• This was the first Spanish cerveceria I ever went to...but I wasn't even in Spain when I did. 100 Montaditos has small little sandwiches (montaditos) that come with all sorts of fillings: salmon, jamon iberico, even tortilla de patatas. Their biggest draw is their 1 euro deal on Wednesdays: all their montaditos are 1 euro, and you can get a mug of beer, sangria, or tinto de verano for a mere 2 euro. (If you live in the States and you have one of these near you, they have $1 Wednesdays!) These are all over Sevilla, although my personal favorite was the one located directly across from the Univeristy of Sevilla's Facultad de Historia.

Plaza Alfalfa

• For a night out on the town with the locals, there's nothing better than Plaza Alfalfa. Located in the center of the city, Plaza Alfalfa is surrounded by smaller local bars and significantly less foreigners than most other locations. The price ranges can vary depending on where you are, but it's completely possible to pay just 4 euros for a sizeable mojito! While I can't speak for any of the discotecas here, the bars all have a really friendly atmosphere that can easily make for either a chill night out or a wild one.

Calle Betis

• Tourist central to the extreme, Calle Betis is located along the south banks of the river between the neighborhoods of Los Remedios and Triana. There is no shortage of bars and discotecas on this street, and many foreigners choose to party the night away along this street. On our first-ever venture to Betis, my roommate and I came upon the Long Island Bar, which we absolutely loved for the rnadom assortment of people there as well as the fact that they have a different shot for each of the fifty states. We also stumbled upon a Latin disco. where there was plenty of salsa and bachata to go around.

Shopping

Santa Cruz

• Barrio Santa Cruz is what my mind pre-study abroad mind conceived as inherently Spanish. There's the small cobblestone streets, the balconies, the flowers. In the midst of all the winding streets, you'll find some small artisan and local shops. While not many sell clothing, this is a great place to find some unique or traditionally Spanish gifts and souvenirs.

Triana

• I'm going to be totally honest: I didn't venture into Triana until about two months into my time abroad. On a weekend where I wasn't traveling, some friends and I ventured to the market on a Saturday. While we personally didn't buy much, there is so much fresh food and plenty of hademade crafts and artwork along the banks of the river. The food is more expensive than what it would be at a supermarket, but there's loads of local products that are worth buying for their sheer deliciousness.

El Centro (Calle Sierpes and Calle Tetuan)

• This area was a danger zone for my wallet. These streets are quite narrow but it is literally just shop after shop. On Tetuan, you have all your big Spanish staples like Corte Ingles, Zara, Bershka, and Mango, but you also have smaller, local stores all along Calle Sierpes that sell all sorts of traditional Spanish clothing and artifacts. The best part is that this isn't like Barcelona or Madrid where the pick-pocketers are rampant. The streets feel incredibly safe.

Sevilla is much smaller than the more popular Spanish cities of Barcelona and Madrid, and I personally feel like there's also less attractions and tourist areas. However, there is definitely an abundance of tapas bars and restaurants so you'll always eat well. Based on pure charm, Sevilla is well-worth a visit, although I would say you don't need more than a week to hit up all the major sites.

Happy travels!

On Leaving

"What are you doing?" is probably what I've heard more than anything for the past six months. Often, I even have to pause and ask myself, "Why in the world would you drop everything and just move across the ocean? You have actually lost your marbles."

I think every person is supposed to follow "The Plan" after college graduation: get a job (or go to grad school and then get a job), settle down and get married, have kids, work your way to the top, retire happy. For a long time, I thought I would "be responsible" and do the same, but in college I realized just how incredibly boring that sounds...sorry not sorry. Where's the adventure, the exploring, all the fun of youth? Studying abroad made me realize just how much I still can learn about myself, others, and the world in general by traveling and living in a foreign land.

I can't deny that I'm incredibly excited. I am taking a huge leap of faith here, but this opportunity fell into my lap and it has worked out in a way I could never have planned for. I'm young and really wanted to experience something new in a completely different environment before saddling up for school again. I get bored extremely easily (a huge problem in my life), and while I probably will eventually settle down into life in Madrid and have weekends where I lounge in my PJs and watch Downton, the opportunity for adventures and travel is much more at-hand than it is here. And I want to grow. Physically, I'm basically done and have been since I was about 10, but mentally? Spiritually? Home girl has heaps and bounds left, and what better way to do it than by challenging yourself to the extreme?

I won't lie and say that everyone has been supportive of my decision. I can't exactly blame them: it is a bit drastic and maybe even irresponsible. But ultimately, I am not doing this for them; I am doing this for me. It is not the traditional way of doing things and it does seem on the surface that I'm throwing away my college education. This, however, is perhaps one of the best opportunities I could ever have: I will be moving to a foreign city, with a steady job and reasonable salary, and I don't even have to work all that many hours. I won't be sitting in an office: I will be giving these kids a lifelong skill and give myself the adventure of a lifetime along the way. I want to prove to myself that I really can do anything I set my mind to, and really, after living abroad on your own, you can tackle almost anything.

I want adventure, not monotony and "average". I want to be able to move forward in life knowing that I've seen what I've wanted to see, do what I wanted to do.

Given all that, it isn't all roses over here in my little garden. I'm very methodical when I try to sort out my feelings, so of course I made a list on the strongest emotions I'm feeling...even though I realize that lives up to the emotional woman stereotype.

Fear

I don't think people take me seriously when I tell them I'm nervous or scared. Y'all, I don't know if you realize this, but it's kind of a big move. I'm moving to a city where I know no one. Sure, I speak the language and that makes it loads easier on one front, but I've never moved somewhere and been so completely alone. I can't drive home or fly back for a weekend; an entire ocean separates me from my family and friends. I've never taught for such a long period of time. In Sevilla I helped out with English classes at a secondary school but a) that was once a week b) I was told exactly what to do and c) I'm doing primary school now, and younger kids need more entertainment. I also have this ridiculous, if immature, desire to have people like me. And it terrifies me that my fellow teachers might not...or worse, my students. I'm scared that I won't make friends: I'm not an extrovert by any means. I'm scared that I might hate my job or Madrid. I'm scared that I won't find my niche. There's so many things that could go wrong, and my overactive and perfectionist mind can't help but bring these up, more and more frequently as I get closer to my departure date. I'm a big fan of planning; it's the main reason I keep a planner. Not having a concrete plan and knowing exactly what's going to happen...it's terrifying.

Frustrated

Piggy-backing off some of the previous points, I've been feeling quite frustrated throughout the process as well. There's the more obvious points of frustrations: the visa process was an awful debacle of sending papers all over the state, dishing out cash to a million different organizations, photocopying a thousand different documents, etc. The frustration of trying to semi-apartment search or work out a metro pass from across the pond. Dealing with the lax civil servants in Spain. But then there's the frustration that's inspired by people I know. I love my family and friends, but y'all. I am not going crazy, and it does irritate me when people suggest that I haven't thought this through. Trust me, I've given it plenty of thought. I'm not going abroad to go on an extended vacation: I've graduated, and while this isn't the typical 9-5 job, it is still a job. I can't just skip and travel whenever I feel like it as I did when I studied abroad. And don't even get me started on the frustrations of trying to navigate applying to grad school from overseas (and for those of you concerned, yes, grad school is still in the planner).

Sadness

I was actually kind of surprised to find myself feeling sad about leaving. Obviously, I knew I would get sad about leaving my family and friends behind, but I think more than anything it's surprised me that I've been getting sad thinking about the moments that I'm going to miss. One of my friends and sorority sister is getting married in November, and I most likely will not be able to attend the wedding because of my school schedule. I won't be there to welcome the newest babies to my family for big/little reveal in the fall (dumb, I know, but I love my fam). I'll miss most of my sister's big senior year events. I won't get to see our new cat go from kitten to full-grown evil cat (sorry, I love my kitty but I'll always prefer dogs). My friends' lives will go on with new memories and new inside jokes, things I won't be a part of, and it makes me incredibly sad to think about that. I'll be spending Thanksgiving and my birthday without any of my family members or friends from home or college. And it goes without saying that nothing will be able to replace just being at home with a home-cooked meal with your family laughing around the dinner table.

Excitement

Despite all the frustrations, anxiety, and sadness, it goes without saying that I'm also incredibly excited about what lies ahead. Up to this point, everything has worked out exactly the way I've dreamed of (and even more than I dreamed of). I absolutely love Spain, and the one time I was in Madrid I loved it. This is a new experience for me, and quite frankly it's one I'm looking forward to tackling. I get so excited thinking about my future students and spend many nights mentally planning lessons and activities for them. And the anticipation is killing me! I'm itching to get on that plane and just GO. Like, "Hello world, here I am, ready to conquer España!"...or at least my little primary school.

I'm so looking forward to this next chapter of my life. I am just relishing in the thought of not having to study or write papers for at least a year and having more time to myself and what I want to do rather than what my professors want me to do. I can focus fully on my job, grad school apps, and eventually (once those are out of the way), enriching my life in the way only cultural immersion can provide.

I know this post is really long: I kind of used it as a bit of a rant/confessional. Lately, I've gotten a lot of questions about how excited I am to be going, but it's not always rainbows and bunnies and I want people to know that. Moving abroad is not easy, even if you do speak the language. My time in Spain will be full of wonderful new memories and probably a fair share of poopy days, but I can't wait. Bring it, Madrid.

Travel Talk

I've decided to start a new series on the blog. When I studied abroad, there were a couple of weekends where I literally just hopped on to a bus and went to a random destination we had decided on just a few hours before. We had no guide, no advice, and no clue about anything we were doing. While I definitely recommend doing that (it's so much fun, trust me), we also probably would have saved quite a bit of time if we had at least a small idea of what to expect when we got off the bus on the other side.

Which brings me to Travel Talk.

Essentially, these will serve as very basic guides for different cities around Spain and the world. I will try to include different sights, hotels/hostel recommendations, restaurants, and just general tips for each location covered. The best part is that I can't do this alone: while I've traveled a bit, I definitely have not done every city possible. So I will be getting help. At the moment, said help includes my two best friends from college but anyone who wants to contribute, just contact me (links are on the left!) and we can arrange something to feature you on the blog :)

The first Travel Talk is coming soon and will feature a city near and dear to my heart: Sevilla, Spain.

Happy travels!

For All Future Auxiliares

Liz from Young Adventuress recently wrote a post on the 10 mistakes auxiliares tend to make. A lot of these things are often suggested on the auxiliares Facebook page, but they probably are worth repeating because no doubt some people will still do these things. Personally I want to emphasize #5, #6, and #7. Saludos!

Pesky Little Things

It's easy to romanticize your time abroad when you return to the States. When people ask you about your life overseas, of course you're going to neglect the grittier details and focus on the high points. I love Spain and Europe as a whole deeply, but now that I'm preparing to set off again for a longer period of time, I'm trying to be a bit more realistic with my expectations.

10 Things About Europe That Made Me Miss America

1. No screened windows

Y'all, this was a big one. I live in Florida, where mosquitos are an everyday thing. I don't do well with things coming in through the window. I studied abroad during a fall term in Sevilla, so the first month and a half was a literal hell because of how hot it was...I'm talking over 40 celsius almost every day. My señora didn't have the A/C on at all except during lunch, so during the day I would have to leave my window open to get a semblance of a breeze. Let me tell you, your room gets dirtier a lot faster.

2. Extra long laundry day(s)

As part of our homestay, our host moms were in charge of our laundry. You would think this is the greatest thing ever, and in many ways it is. However, my host mom, like most older Spanish women, was extremely thorough in her laundry. Between washing, drying, and ironing everything, our clothes would be gone for about a week and a half (or more) at a time. It got to the point where my roommate NE and I had to go buy extra clothes, particularly socks in my case, because we were always running out of one thing or another.

3. No ice

In the winter, this is actually not a big issue. The problem was the last few weeks of summer in Southern Spain. It is so incredibly hot and many times when you go to a restaurant all you want is a nice, cool glass of water. Well, good luck. It'll probably be cool when you first get it, but lukewarm within about 30 seconds. Fighting heat with heat, I guess.

4. Cyber-cafes/coffee shops

I honestly had never given this much thought, as I am not a coffee addict and had internet at my host mom's place. When midterms rolled around, my roommate and I decided to put in a little bit of effort and at least read our notes over once. However, it is nearly impossible to find a coffee shop to study in, something we could easily do on campus back home. Even the Starbucks were more for social gatherings over coffee than a study zone. In the end, we ended up at a nearly empty Dunkin in some really comfortable couches...and nearly zero studying done.

5. Modern amenities

As has been hinted at previously in this post, certain modern amenities that are commonplace in the US are not as common in Spain. Electricity is significantly more expensive in Europe than here (a situation that has only escalated with the crisis), and Europeans generally have a much more eco-friendly attitude about amenities. Dryers are not common and neither are A/C or heating. While you do get used to it eventually and learn to cope, it's hard to give up if you come from the States. I'm used to having the A/C on nearly year-round because of the Florida humidity, so my first few weeks in Sevilla were difficult.

6. Business hours

Ah, the famed Spanish siesta. It cuts the business day into two parts and effectively shuts down most Spanish cities from about 2 till 5pm. Banks are usually only open on weekdays, and even then only till about 1 or 2pm, making it difficult to reach one in time if you have classes all morning or work. You'll also be hard-pressed to find any 24-hour location, including convenience stores. One of the first debates we got into with our program teacher while abroad was the lack of 24-hour locations. She called them useless and really not essential, but I don't think she gets it: sometimes you just really want some Sour Cream and Onion chips at 3am.

7. Gypsies

My first encounter with the gypsies was outside the cathedral in Mallorca. I had never been to Europe before but I had been warned to watch out for them. Luckily, I was with a local so he steered me in another direction. In Sevilla, however, they're all over the center so a bit harder to avoid. The ones in southern Spain try to get you by offering this plant with healing powers. Unfortunately, while talking to/distracting you, another one may try to take your money. Gypsies are not unique to Spain though: they were all over Paris, particularly around the train stations and the metro, areas sure to be full of distracted foreigners. Like you would anywhere, it's just important to be mindful of your surroundings and keep your belongings close.

8. Lack of public restrooms and fountains

The first time I noticed this was actually at the beach. I had come with my swimsuit already on but a couple of people traveling with me had not. When we found a bathroom for them to change in, it turned out it cost €1,20! Just to use the facilities! There are no free public restrooms on the streets and most businesses won't let you use their restrooms unless you're a customer. And if you're thirsty, best get yourself a water bottle, because I never once saw a public water fountain.

9. No bagels

I absolutely love bagels. They're my absolute favorite to-go breakfast food (because you can't really take French toast to go). A toasted blueberry bagel with extra fluffy cream cheese? Heaven on earth. However, bagels are essentially non-existent in Spain. While a few people tell me they have managed to make them, it's just not the same as stopping by Einstein Bros. or Panera to get a warm, toasty bagel.

10. Poor customer service

This is probably the thing that most irritated me about Europe. Everyone in the service sector gets paid a fixed salary; tipping is not expected or encouraged. While I love not having to tip, it makes me wonder if tipping would perhaps improve the customer service (at least in restaurants). Many waiters are just straight up rude and service can be really slow. It's basically impossible to order, eat, and pay for a meal in an hour or less.

Have you lived abroad? What parts of daily living made you miss your home country?

Dating a Spaniard

The wonderful Kaley of Y Mucho Más recently interviewed me about my relationship with my Spanish novio. Check out her article here! And if you want to find out how in the world the Novio and I manage, I actually wrote up a list of how we keep the romance going even from across the Atlantic.

Pack It Up

I am now less than 40 days away from my adventures abroad and many of my fellow auxiliares are probably in the same boat. Judging by the Facebook page, loads of people are freaking out about cell phones or finding a flat. Call me shallow, but at the moment my biggest concern is packing. I'm moving abroad, and it's not like college where I would switch out my wardrobe every time I came home. Luckily, the lessons I learned from studying abroad are still fresh in my mind. While this list is definitely not exclusive (things vary according to your own needs), I think it's probably what I'm going to base myself off of.

PS, this list is geared a bit more towards women, because I am female. Sorry, boys!

Nic's Packing List for España

Clothes and Accessories

• Cute and trendy tops/blouses
• avoid t-shirts unless you're planning to exercise. You will not really see Spanish women wearing a casual tee in public.
• Jeans, particularly darker ones
• Leggings and tights
• if you're short on space, these can be bought for cheap at H&M
• Shorts
• avoid: sweatpants and gym shorts. Again, the Spanish generally dress much nicer than the average American college student.
• a coat, preferably one that is suitable for both day and nightwear to save space
• comfortable shoes! I cannot stress the comfort factor enough. You will walk A LOT, even in the larger cities like Madrid that have an extensive metro system.
• a nice pair of leather boots would be ideal for winter. While generally more expensive in Spain, I saved space in my suitcase and bought mine at Zara for 80 euros.
• other personal preferences: ballet flats, house slippers, one pair of heels (only if absolutely necessary...cobblestones)
• avoid: packing every pair of shoes you own (go for shoes that can be paired with a large variety of outfits); sneakers unless you plan to use them to work out; Uggs...no one wears them; heels - they aren't very comfortable for going out, so if anything go with wedges instead.
• scarves! Spaniards love them and you will be using them a lot.
• underwear and bras
• note: if you're really busty, I would recommend stocking up on bras here...European bras fit a little strange.
• cardigans and sweaters
• socks! LOTS OF THEM.
• tanks, particularly ones that can be used for layering
• at least one nicer and more formal outfit. You never know what kinds of events you'll be invited to.
• pajamas (preferably pant ones for the winter)
• a small bag or purse. I'm partial to cross-body bags because you can keep an eye on it at all times.
• if desired, you can bring one more casual one and a nicer one for going out
• keep in mind that pickpocketers are everywhere, and you'll be targeted for being foreign

Personal Hygiene

• deodorant. The one in Spain is odd.
• any medication you might take. Talk to your insurance in the States to see if you can take enough for your stay abroad. 
• note: some medication will be available over-the-counter at Spanish pharmacies. Just take your prescription in and they will try to find you the equivalent.
• pain killers such as Tylenol
• any vitamins you take
• Neosporin + bandaids (I'm accident-prone)
• toothbrush + travel-sized toothpaste
• makeup! It is much more expensive in Spain.
• nail polish
• chapstick, especially if you're attached to a particular brand
• hair accessories: headbands, hair elastics, bobby pins
• sunscreen...it's outrageously overpriced in Spain
• travel-sized bottles for shampoo and conditioner. You'll need them if you plan to travel and stay at hostels.

Technology

• laptop + charger
• camera + charger
• iPod + charger
• headphones
• flash drive
• adapters for all your chargers 
• cell phone + charger
• if you have an American smartphone, you can bring it to Spain and just turn off data, leaving it on wi-fi only mode. You'll be able to iMessage, whatsapp, viber, etc. when connected to wi-fi. You can also bring your phone and have it unlocked so that you can enter a Spanish SIM card. I'll probably cover cell phones in another post.

Miscellaneous

• YOUR PASSPORT!
• another form of ID, usually a driver's license
• credit/debit card(s)
• health insurance
• at least 100 euros in cash
• a wallet
• copy of all your important documents. Leave one copy at home and bring the other copy with you.
• a carry-on that fits baggage restrictions for airlines like Easyjet or RyanAir
• SOME craft supplies. Don't buy out Michael's, but you might find it useful to bring a few things (especially stickers).
• measuring cups if you enjoy baking

Get in Spain

• shampoo and conditioner
• feminine hygiene products
• regular-sized toothpaste
• razor
• blow dryer and straightener
• you can bring your own if you really want, but many people have ruined theirs so watch out.
• hair products (gel, mousse, hairbrush, etc)
• soap/body wash
• face wash/lotion
• polish remover
• floss
• umbrella
• maps...you'll find them useful, I promise.
• any and all house needs: hangers, bedsheets, pillows, towels, silverware, etc. They have Ikea in Europe.

Bonus Tips

• DO NOT overpack. I know everyone says this, but I cannot stress it enough. Spain is a very modern country, and many of the things we have here are available there. Advice from my study abroad office: take out everything you want to take, and then half it.
• Most of the months you will be abroad will fall within the colder months. Heating is not as common in Spain as it is in the States, so make sure to pack winter clothes! I definitely did not pack enough when I went abroad and ended up buying a million new sweater tops at Zara (not the worst thing ever, but still). 
• Take into consideration the weather in the places you're planning to visit. For instance, I visited London in mid-October, and it was much much colder there than it was in Sevilla at the same time.
• The key with clothing is versatility and layering.
• Realize that you will probably do some shopping in Spain (and elsewhere). Leave space in your suitcase for that unless you plan on just buying an extra suitcase.
• If there is a particular candy you're attached to, you might consider bringing it. A girl I know brought a jar of peanut butter with her, I kid you not.
• As an auxiliar, part of your job is to teach kids about your culture. It would be good to bring some things that represent home: pictures, American holiday goodies
• The dress codes at the schools is generally very casual. No need for dress pants if you wouldn't normally wear them.
• In general, Spaniards dress much more nicely than Americans. You won't see people walking around in sweats or a baggy tee. If you would wear it to work out or lounge around, don't bring it (again, unless you plan to exercise).
• For my fellow sorority girls, no need to bring all your lettered shirts. You'll only make yourself stand out more.
• Weigh your bags before you go to the airport. Check weight limits for the airline you're flying on. In general, the limit for checked bags is 50 pounds.